Remember Todd Oldham….the designer? Well, if you are in your mid-30s and beyond, and possess that fashion passion, the answer is likely a resounding “YES.” With the resurgence of 90s fashion, I think of those who drove the trends and Todd Oldham was the first who came to mind. I loved seeing the coverage of his fashion shows, however I had trouble arriving at a succinct description of Oldham’s design aesthetic. So, I turned to my very cool friend, Jimmy, to provide an answer. And unsurprisingly, he replied with “arts and crafts couture” (thank you Jimmy; it would have taken me a day to come up with that). Because of his unpredictable vision, Oldham was full of surprises (yet, I was usually able to identify his merchandise, simply because it was so unique). In no particular order, here’s what I think of when I recall Oldham’s during a time when he created the most incredible fashion:
- The iconic “Shalom” tee shirt that Shalom Harlow wore during a fashion show. Before they were identified as viral moments, this was one of them.
- The mix of prints and stripes that defied all the “rules” I learned when I first started working at Saks.
- Susan Sarandon sporting his apparel (as did Madonna, Fran Drescher, Candace Bergen and other 90s celebrities).
In addition to the aforementioned information case, there several important points to remember about Oldham:
- Pioneered and used digitally-printed fabrics that were used in his collections. Others followed after Oldham introduced it.
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He created “more is more” designs. To quote McNay’s Fashion Nirvana: Runway to Everyday Exhibition, “The designer became a master of tasteful maximalism in his pairings of full-body prints with black, satin, cropped blazers and embroidered straps on slip dresses. Evidence of Oldham’s colorful, eclectic design aesthetic and use of digitally-printed textiles.”
While I never “officially” attended one of his shows (meaning that I did not have an invitation), I was able to sneak into one of his shows (SRO, admittedly). It’s a show I will never forget. To further describe Oldham’s genius and his impact on the fashion scene, I turn to the following description:
“The decade was an exuberant era for fashion, with bright colors, short skirts, and lots of sparkle, but Oldham took that exuberance to an entirely different level. I saw beautiful, bold colorful prints, mixed with stripes in silhouettes that were fun, sexy, yet wearable. He used a myriad of fabrics, also ones that were not “typical” for that time.” Loretta Chase & Susan Holloway
Todd Oldham obviously possessed a love of history, reading, coupled with a study of design. Off the runway, I am told (by some of his confidants) that he was a democratic designer, one of the nicest people they had ever met, and he wanted to be accessible to the masses (relatively speaking).
Mr. Oldham left the business, seemingly at a time when he was at the height of press coverage and adding other categories of businesses. As the decade moved on, Todd Oldham scaled back his work and eventually, he closed his wholesale operation and focused his efforts elsewhere. To pull a quote from a New York Times article, Mr. Oldham stated the following:
“My business is involved in so many countries and so much time and so much expense, I thought: 'This is insane. What do I have rather than the bother to bother? ' It felt like maybe I should be doing something else with my time.”
Here’s what I know from the store perspective during the 90’s…..the business was changing and it was less about creativity and more about achieving profitability goals at the end of the season (in other words, brands had to pay up). Boutiques and shops within stores that were once used to showcase new talent, were quickly being absorbed by lifestyle brands that promised uniformity, lower prices, and end-of-season settlements to offset markdowns.
I recently re-watched the Alexander McQueen documentary and thought about Oldham. McQueen spoke about the demands on his time. Then, as his business expanded. I wonder if Oldham foresaw the potential drain on his energy and resources by continuing on the upward trajectory. the pressure to do more, do it differently, and get involved in avenues that compromised his artistic integrity.
But, here’s why we need people like Todd Oldham, in my opinion. The fashion industry is being led by a new group of designers (who may not really design things, they may not even be able to draw). They include: reality stars, athletes, musicians, motivational speakers and influencers, who have a large number of social media followers. They are given contracts to create eponymous collections, based on what they like to wear. But, they are not designers, nor do they possess a disciplined vision to imagine, create, and execute ongoing collections. But, we have a finite number of designers who are actually talented and know how to drive the business. Most of them will NEVER have the chance to have their collections shown in a brick-and-mortar boutique, stores, or even pop-up shop. Sure, they can start a digital brand, however it’s costly to run both.
So, I say “BRAVO” to Mr. Oldham and trust that he is living his best life. But, please know that the industry is missing your talent. Maybe he will make a cameo appearance again (and may I suggest that he start by designing a tee shirt with “Mary” artwork)?